On 12/8/2023 4:58 PM, sticks wrote:
On 12/6/2023 10:12 PM, Paul wrote:
On 12/6/2023 3:49 PM, sticks wrote:
First, I was thinking about this and I think I should apologize for
putting this here in the first place. Yes, it is a W10 box, but it
really isn't an operating system problem, it is really just a hardware issue.ÿ I'm not redirecting follow-ups, but will include
a.t.comp.hardware to the groups as I will probably report back there if
what I'm doing works.ÿ So, sorry for the off-topic stuff to the readers.
Windows 10 group (alt.comp.os.windows-10) removed.
I think I can take this to mean the answer to my question on whether
or not a faulty CPU can "break" a motherboard is a yes?
T's post and now yours has kind of changed my opinion on moving
forward. ÿI priced out some stuff
and I think I'll work one more time at board and CPU swap.ÿ Probably
should just give up and get
something new, but with as little as I use this laptop I think I'll
take the cheap route.
Thanks!
OK, so what do we know for sure. i7 blows original board.
I don't recall what led me to believe it was motherboard, but in
hindsight it could have been the CPU all along.
i7 seems
to have blown replacement board. PCB part numbers the same ?
Visual inspection of PCB, de-pop list is the same, components
that are installed are the same ? No sign of a cost reduced
i3-supporting PCB, where portions of circuitry were removed ?
Boards were the same and should have worked.ÿ 99.9% sure the i7 must
have spanked the working board.ÿ Lesson learnt.
Some product lines, have a multitude of PCBs, some PCBs are AMD,
some are Intel, some are higher power than others. It can be hard,
when working with that laptop model, to be sure exactly what
you're buying. Models which have a smaller spread and no attempt
was made to deceive the public, are easier to work with.
The repair market using brand-new manufacturer-PCB is usually
ridiculously priced. People selling old machines have two choices.
Sell machine whole (a machine with busted LCD is a typical config),
or they part them out to maximize their profit (PCB with unknown
provenance, casing, LCD screen, CCFL tubes, optical drive,
you know, whatever was convenient to take apart and sell).
In that case, you can't really be sure what was broken on the
thing, to cause them to sell it. Whereas a natural assumption
would be, a broken-LCD-screen unit, was working before it
met its end -- dropping a laptop off of sufficient height,
can even crack a PCB/mobo, so if there are signs the keyboard
got damaged, larger masses or more forceful accidents could
be involved (laptop in car accident).
Just taking another i3 board and putting the i7 in it, that
sounds like material for a book about "domino failures" :-)
It might be better to shop for a PCB/CPU pairing, and change up
your game of roulette.
I found a replacement of the same model that has win 11 on it and is
shown booted up.ÿ Has a bigger drive and actually looks cleaner than
mine, and is just missing battery and charger/power cord, and has a
sticky keyboard.ÿ Couldn't pass up this one since it was only $50 minus
a $10 discount.
On some older laptops, the reason they're for sale, is the power
connector broke. Which was why manufacturers started putting the
power connector on its own PCB. So that if the power connector
area shattered or cracked, the replacement was a tiny PCB with
just the connector on it. Your machine could be modern enough,
that a power connector accident would not be the end of it, and
if someone broke the power connector, the "main" PCB might be OK
(since the two bits are separate, to reduce stresses).
On this one, a dead battery and sticky keyboard was probably enough for someone to be talked into just getting something new.
Should be here soon and I'll post to A.C.H. the results.
Thanks!
Well, the replacement box was just as described. Toshiba Satellite P755-S5215. It had 6 GB of ram, one stick being a 4GB Samsung that I
had an identical 4GB to up it to a total of 8GB. It had no battery or
power cord, and the keyboard didn't work, but it physically looked
better than mine did. So I upped the ram, swapped out the keyboards,
put in a battery and fired it up.
Before I put my drive, an identical 640GB drive to the one in there, I
wanted to see if the one that came with it worked. It indeed had what appeared to be a fresh install of Windows 11 on it. I'm not sure how
they did that, since with the other drive I have with Windows 10 on it
says it is unable to currently run Win 11. I really do need to start
paying more attention to the differences in 10 and 11, and what they did
to make it possible, but for now I'm good using the Win 10 drive. Oh,
and the wi-fi is back to working again, so that is another plus.
All in all, I'm glad T and Paul kind of helped me to decide to keep at
it instead of just buying a new replacement. For $40 I saved quite a
bit for a system I mostly use only when traveling. I probably should
have taken it all apart and reapplied the thermal past on the
cpu/heatsink, but I put that off for now. I'll probably install Core
Temp on this laptop so I can keep an eye on CPU temps in the future.
Thanks for the help all!
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